When it comes to ramen in America, the most common types found on menus are Tonkotsu or Spicy Miso. However, according to Steven Pursley, chef and owner of Menya Rui in St. Louis, Missouri, there is so much more to explore beyond these popular options. Pursley, who was named one of Food & Wine’s 2023 Best New Chefs, has made it his mission to introduce diners to the rich and flavorful world of soy sauce-based ramen. Despite the widespread popularity of Tonkotsu and Spicy Miso, Pursley opts to offer three hot ramen, one cold Tsukemen with a dipping sauce, and one brothless Mazemen-style, all of which are soy sauce-based flavors called Shoyu.
In Japan, soy-based ramen holds a special place in the hearts of many. A 2024 survey revealed that 46% of participants considered Shoyu ramen to be their favorite, followed closely by 45% who preferred Miso and 42% who chose Tonkotsu. Another survey in 2022 highlighted Shoyu and Shio (salt) as the top favorites among 880 respondents. The appeal of Shoyu ramen lies in its umami-rich flavor profile, with one participant noting, “Nothing other than umami-focused soy ramen can clearly reveal the quality of the bowl.” On the other hand, Shio ramen is favored for its mild and delicate flavors that provide comfort with every bite.
Steven Pursley’s culinary expertise in ramen can be attributed to his unique upbringing and deep-rooted connections to Japan. With an American father and Japanese mother, Pursley spent his formative years shuttling between Okinawa and Missouri. His fascination with food and cultural exploration led him to pursue a career in the culinary arts, specifically focusing on ramen. Following intensive training in Japan under the mentorship of seasoned ramen chefs, Pursley honed his skills in crafting authentic and diverse styles of ramen.
The Essence of Menya Rui
Menya Rui, Pursley’s 24-seat ramen shop, stands as a testament to his dedication to preserving the authentic Japanese ramen culture. Despite the potential for higher profits through a fancier tasting menu, Pursley remains committed to the traditional roots of ramen. The intimate setting of Menya Rui mirrors that of a typical Japanese ramen shop, where diners enjoy their meals quickly and efficiently before moving on. Pursley’s meticulous attention to detail extends to the noodles he prepares in-house using a vintage machine imported from Japan. By handcrafting two types of noodles to complement different ramen styles, Pursley ensures a harmonious balance of textures and flavors in each bowl.
Over the years, ramen has evolved from being a niche Japanese dish to a staple in American food culture. Chef David Chang’s influential Momofuku Noodle Bar, which opened in New York in 2004, played a pivotal role in popularizing ramen across the country. As of 2023, there were 1,399 ramen shops nationwide, signaling the widespread acceptance of ramen as a beloved comfort food. Pursley attributes the rapid rise of ramen’s popularity to its versatility and lack of stringent rules, allowing chefs to innovate and create unique interpretations of this beloved dish.
With over 24,000 ramen shops in Japan, each offering a distinct flavor profile and culinary experience, ramen embodies a sense of endless exploration and discovery. Pursley emphasizes the sheer diversity of ramen bowls available, with each shop showcasing its creative take on this beloved dish. Whether it’s the nuanced flavors of Shoyu or the comforting simplicity of Shio ramen, ramen enthusiasts are presented with a multitude of options to satisfy their cravings.
The world of soy sauce-based ramen offers a glimpse into the rich tapestry of Japanese culinary tradition and innovation. Through the expert craftsmanship of chefs like Steven Pursley, diners can embark on a gastronomic journey filled with bold flavors, tantalizing textures, and a deep appreciation for the art of ramen-making. As ramen continues to captivate taste buds around the world, it serves as a testament to the enduring charm and versatility of this timeless comfort food.
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