In the fast-paced and competitive world of London’s restaurant scene, establishing a distinctive presence is no easy feat. Cornus, the brainchild of David O’Connor and Joe Mercer Nairne, known for their successful venture Medlar, has emerged as a promising contender in this challenging landscape. Situated atop The Ice Factory at Eccleston Yards near London Victoria, Cornus offers a prime location complemented by exceptional cuisine crafted by executive chef Gary Foulkes, previously of Michelin-starred Angler. The focus at Cornus is on quality rather than gimmicks, reflecting the founders’ commitment to surpassing culinary standards.
The road to launching Cornus was not without obstacles. O’Connor and Nairne faced numerous challenges, from Brexit to Covid, and tough competition from well-established operators with significant financial backing. However, a breakthrough finally came when a partnership with Grosvenor materialized, aligning their vision and paving the way for Cornus to come to life. The decision to set up shop on the rooftop of The Ice Factory, a historic warehouse in Belgravia, was strategic, offering a unique dining experience with stunning panoramic views. The transformation of the space from a bare shell to a stylish 70-cover restaurant took just six months, showcasing the founders’ agility and determination to bring their vision to fruition.
Culinary Delights at Cornus
Chef Foulkes’ culinary philosophy at Cornus revolves around showcasing the best of British and European seasonal ingredients in innovative ways. Dishes like native lobster with hand-rolled spaghetti exemplify the kitchen’s dedication to sustainability and flavor, utilizing every part of the lobster to create a harmonious dish. The menu also features seabass tartare, Hubert Lacoste’s tomatoes, and Roast Landes chicken, all sourced from top producers, offering a ‘Best of British’ culinary experience. The dessert menu, curated by head pastry chef Kelly Cullen, promises indulgent treats like creamed rice pudding and mille-feuille of English raspberries, adding a sweet finale to the dining experience at Cornus.
Unlike many upscale restaurants relying on external investments, Cornus is entirely self-funded by O’Connor and Nairne, with backing from the Grosvenor Estate. This commitment to self-financing ensures that the founders have full control over business decisions while facing the challenge of operating within a tight budget. However, the emphasis on quality ingredients and culinary talent inevitably leads to higher costs, compounded by the current economic climate’s challenges, including rising food costs and supply chain disruptions. Despite these hurdles, Nairne remains optimistic, focusing on the long-term vision and values that underpin Cornus’ ethos.
With their extensive experience at Medlar, O’Connor and Nairne prioritize providing exceptional service and culinary experiences at Cornus. O’Connor’s dedication to front-of-house roles and Nairne’s culinary expertise ensure a harmonious blend of hospitality and gastronomy. The goal at Cornus is not just financial success but also establishing a lasting reputation as a culinary institution known for its food, wine, and service excellence. By adhering to their core principles and nurturing a culture of excellence within the team, the founders aim to solidify Cornus’ position as a go-to destination for discerning diners in London.
Cornus represents a new chapter in London’s culinary landscape, combining expertise, innovation, and a commitment to quality to create a dining experience like no other. As the restaurant continues to evolve and refine its operations, it is poised to carve out a unique identity that sets it apart from competitors and cements its reputation as a culinary institution to watch.
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