In the picturesque town of Glastonbury, a culinary revolution was set in motion with the launch of the Queen of Cups, a quirky Middle Eastern eatery crafted by Ayesha Kalaji in the wake of the pandemic. Opening its doors on April 2, 2021, coinciding with the resumption of indoor dining, Kalaji’s venture emerged during one of the most challenging periods for the hospitality industry. The restaurateur reflects on those early days: “It was a very nervous world,” she admits. Yet, rather than succumbing to the anxiety that loomed with the COVID-19 backdrop, Kalaji endeavored to create a serene oasis of culinary delight.
Transforming a dilapidated 17th-century coaching house into a restaurant in just six weeks would be a daunting task for anyone, but Kalaji embraced the challenge with a determination that speaks volumes about her passion. Her commitment is palpable—mixing culinary experimentation by day with rigorous renovations by night, she even enlisted her mother to assist in revamping the outdoor space. This relentless work ethic was not just about creating a restaurant; it was about fostering a community hub where people could find comfort and joy.
The heart of Queen of Cups lies not only in its food but also in its deeply entrenched values of community and inclusivity. Named after a tarot card representing feminine energy and emotional connection, the restaurant carries a spiritual undertone that resonates with Glastonbury’s mystical heritage. This unique angle immediately set Queen of Cups apart, allowing it to connect with a diverse clientele, including the local Druid community.
Kalaji reflects on the excitement of taking that first reservation for a group of Druids, proclaiming, “Welcome to your crazy new life!” This light-hearted approach mirrors the restaurant’s ethos: patrons can express themselves freely. Encouraging a whimsical atmosphere where fairies, warlocks, and other eccentricities are welcomed, the establishment thrives on embracing individuality—within the boundaries of sensible attire, of course.
Ayesha Kalaji’s background in esteemed kitchens like Parsons Nose, The Palomar, and Bubala informs her approach to the menu at Queen of Cups. Steeped in her Jordanian roots, she brings a unique Levantine perspective that challenges diners’ expectations of Middle Eastern cuisine. “Since the meteoric rise of Ottolenghi, customers are more educated about Middle Eastern flavors, making it essential to dig deep into my pantry for something new,” she observes.
Kalaji’s culinary philosophy emphasizes texture as a vital element of the dining experience. She introduces unique ingredients, such as Muḷuqiya, to entice diners to broaden their culinary horizons. Her approach not only elevates traditional dishes but also champions the idea that culinary enjoyment encompasses a spectrum of tastes and textures that may seem foreign.
The whirlwind journey of Queen of Cups has not gone unnoticed. Awards such as the Michelin Bib Gourmand and the title of ‘Best Newcomer’ at the Estrella Damm Top 100 Gastropubs serve as testament to Kalaji’s talent and dedication. Acknowledging the accolades with humility, she quips, “Some days I wake up gobsmacked, thinking, I’m just making great hummus!”
While accolades have undoubtedly boosted the restaurant’s profile, Kalaji maintains a resolute focus on the local community that has supported her through thick and thin. Organizing events like LGBTQ+ nights and comedy showcases illustrates her commitment to fostering inclusivity and diversity, reinforcing the notion that community underpinning is vital for any thriving establishment. “Your locals are the ones that look after you in the depths of winter,” she states, recognizing the importance of maintaining strong ties with the individuals who form the backbone of her business.
As Queen of Cups solidifies its place within the hearts of both locals and visitors, Ayesha Kalaji’s vision remains crystal clear: to deepen community ties, expand her team, and further introduce patrons to the rich tapestry of flavors and experiences her cuisine embodies. Her drive is encapsulated in her belief that success should be collective: “When I win, everyone around me wins. I want us all to win together.”
In an era redefined by the trials of a global pandemic, Queen of Cups stands as more than just a dining destination; it is a burgeoning sanctuary where culinary innovation, community spirit, and personal expression coalesce, redefining what it means to enjoy dining in Glastonbury. Kalaji’s journey is not merely about accolades; it is about crafting a space for joy, connection, and, ultimately, love for food.
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