Storm Watching in Style at Namibia’s Desert Hills Glamping Camp | Focus
We stood on the terrace outside the main lounge watching the storm form on the horizon.
The sky began to bruise, lightning cracking through the clouds, wind picking up.
We’d been on the road for more than a week, battling the elements and the unseasonable rains, but for the first time we didn’t feel a sense of impending doom with an approaching storm – quick! put up the tents, take shelter! – but more a sense of exhilaration as it moved closer to us.
We were watching it form from the lounge/bar/dining room at Desert Hills, a glamping site built on a ridge overlooking the vast Namibian plains, reached via a five km track 17 km south of the Sesriem turnoff on the C19.
Accommodation so far on our two-week trip had varied from nationally run camp sites with shared shower facilities to an en-suite B&B to a pitch that was literally a table and a long drop toilet.
So to arrive here and have the luxury of an ensuite and a double bed and the most stunning views was a real luxury: walking into our room felt almost decadent after a week sleeping in a tent on the roof of our Toyota HiLux.
CLICK HERE TO SEE THE VIRTUAL TOUR
Desert Hills has 11 identical rooms, and one larger family suite, strung along the ridge overlooking a valley.
Each room is canvas-covered, with floor-to-ceiling glass doors, a toilet, shower and a huge four-poster bed facing the glass doors.
The bed is strung with a mosquito net, practical and romantic, but we didn’t hear or see any mozzies, despite the wet weather.
We were told to keep our shoes inside because they might get pinched by jackals, which made us smile thinking of them running across the plains wearing trainers.
The views are transfixing and ever changing; the dawn light piercing through the dark, bathing our bed in morning rays; the flat, hot sun throughout the day and the most spectacular sunsets I have ever seen.
There’s an elemental beauty and power to landscapes like this, that’s both humbling and daunting.
When the storm eventually hit, it was spectacular – the rain came down hard, the wind slammed against the canvas and the noise was so loud we couldn’t speak.
It continued like this for a good 15 minutes or so, abating then resuming, terrifying the small children in the camp, but entrancing us (one guest even opted to stay outside).
And then it was over, all the fury dissipated, sun breaking through the clouds, a gentle drip, drip from the canvas and a freshness in the air.
The lounge is the focal point of the camp, with a small bar, coffee and tea throughout the day, magazines and a small collection of books.
This is where guests gather to play board games or cards throughout the day, or for a pre-dinner drink in the evening.
Dinner menus are posted in the morning so you can advise of any dietaries (it’s too late to advise in the evening, the camp is at least an hour away from the nearest store. It astonished me the chef could whip up such great food every night.)
Dinners were delicious, heavy on meat, specifically steak and game: oryx was a first for me, and was absolutely delicious. But somehow, despite being miles from the coast, we also had fish options, including a delicious breaded kingklip, served on potato puree and sliced vegetables.
Desserts were equally yummy, particularly the passion fruit crème brulee, served with a dollop of ice-cream. Wines were all from South Africa and heavy, pairing well with the red meat.
Mornings were spent grazing at breakfast, which is part-buffet and part table service for hot food; and lazing by the pool.
The pool setting is sublime, just below the main building, with an uninterrupted view towards the mountains, a shaded area, plenty of loungers and a changing area in the main building.
There’s even a fire pit built adjacent to the pool, which sadly we didn’t get to use due to the weather, perfect for stargazing.
Desert Hills is just 35 minutes from Sesriem, the gateway to Sossuvlei, the dunes and the dessicated ancient trees of Deadvlei, and makes for an ideal stop whether you are driving the southern or northern loop of Namibia.
Our stay here was short, but a perfect break in our drive across this incredible country.
More Information
To find out more and book a stay at Desert Hills Glamping Camp
go to Namibia Tracks and Trails at https://www.namibia-tracks-and-trails.com/en/
Words, Pics and 360 Virtual Tour : Mark Hakansson
